Summiting Mauna Kea: What to Know Before You Go
The appeal of summiting Mauna Kea is obvious. It’s the highest point in Hawaii, one of the most impressive volcanoes in the world, and technically it’s the tallest mountain in the world if you consider what is below sea level. It’s an alien landscape unlike anywhere else on earth, and the views are stellar.
With such idyllic surroundings including jungles and beaches, it’s easy to somewhat underestimate Mauna Kea. This towering landmark requires preparation, determination, and awareness for those that want to reach the summit safely! This is far from an easy jaunt – it’s a grueling but rewarding trek through tough terrain and high altitude!
Here’s what you need to know before you go!
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Table of Contents
Summiting Mauna Kea by Car or Foot
It is possible to reach the summit of Mauna Kea by either hiking or driving. This guide includes all the tips you need to know whether you go by car or by foot.
Location of Mauna Kea, Hawaii
Mauna Kea is the highest point in Hawaii. It is located somewhat centrally on the big island. It can be accessed from the Saddle Road, then continuing on up the Mauna Kea Access Road. The Visitor Center and Trailhead are located about 6 miles up the access road.
Altitude
This peak is just shy of a 14’er, so there’s altitude and altitude sickness to be aware of. This can be especially difficult for visitors who are based at sea level for the duration of their visit, and then rapidly ascend a massive amount of elevation gain at high altitude. If you are not already acclimated to this elevation prior to hiking Mauna Kea, it is something to strongly consider. Acclimate ahead of time by spending some time prior at that elevation if this is a concern for you. You can also park at the Visitor Center which is at feet, and spend a few hours acclimating there prior to starting the trail, though this is what I would consider the bare minimum and should not be seen as the ONLY thing you need to do. It might just help a little if you’ve done nothing else to acclimate.
What else can you do? Drink plenty of water before and during your hike. Have plenty of good energizing snacks. Bring Tylenol just in case. Pace yourself and stop to rest as needed. And don’t be afraid to turn around if you start to feel any of the symptoms of altitude sickness like lightheadedness or nausea, and they don’t resolve with rest, food, water, or Tylenol.
Fees/Permits
Fees/permits? None. It is free to visit the Visitor Center and explore the immediate area, and it is free to hike or drive to the summit (with a 4WD vehicle). You can go anytime you want, but always consider weather conditions.
Driving Distances to Mauna Kea
Distances: from Kona (west coast), it’s about a 1.5 drive. From Hilo (east coast), it’s a little shorter at just around 1 hour.
Driving to the Summit of Mauna Kea
You HAVE to have 4WD. In my own personal experience, there was a ranger actually parked on the road stopping everyone continuing on past the Visitor Center, and confirming they had 4WD capabilities. Before I started my hike, I actually watched her stopping each vehicle before allowing them to continue up. Even if the rangers don’t stop you, you’re going to want 4WD. It is a STEEP road past the visitor center with sharp turns and no guardrails, and there are stories of drivers coming down and burning up their brakes. If you are renting a vehicle, most rental companies forbid driving the road to Mauna Kea and you will void your contract should you choose to do so. If you were to damage a rental vehicle coming down the road with an incapable car, you’ll be the one paying.
Hiking to the Summit of Mauna Kea
The trailhead for the Mauna Kea Trail (also named the Humu’ula Trail) is just past the Visitor Center on the left side of the road. Here’s a quick glimpse of what to expect:
- Roundtrip Distance: varies depending – from ~ 12 miles to ~ 15 miles roundtrip. (Factors depend on if you choose to take the spur trail to Lake Waiau, hike down the road or trail, take the short summit trail around, etc.)
- Starting Elevation: ~ 9,000 feet
- Ending Elevation: 13,803 feet
- Elevation Gain: 4,914 feet
Before starting your hike, be sure to self register at the Visitor Center. There are forms and a drop box. And be sure to register when you get back down so they know you are safely off the mountain.
The Visitor Center
The Visitor Center (Onizuka Center) is located about 6 miles up the access road after turning off of Saddle Road. And about 8 miles below the summit. Google Maps had a hard time finding the actual location, until I put in Onizuka Center.
Whether you’re driving or hiking, you’ll make at least a quick stop at the Visitor Center. Note that if you are visiting early, the Visitor Center does not open until 9am, so come prepared with everything you need (like plenty of water). There are bathrooms and a gift shop located in the Visitor Center (also referred to as the VIS). And I had strong cell service also at the Visitor Center (forgot to check higher up).
The Trailhead of Mauna Kea (the Humu’lua Trail)
The Trailhead is about a quarter mile walk past the Visitor Center right off the paved access road. Consider yourself warned that the first few miles of the Humu’lua Trail are considered the toughest and then it levels out somewhat around 12,000 feet.
The Terrain of the Humu’lua Trail
This is a non-technical trail that’s pretty straightforward and well maintained, but it’s a volcano, so expect loose sand, gravel, lava rocks, and lots of exposure. Yep, there’s basically no shade and it’s like walking through a stark, alien landscape. But the views are incredible. Hiking poles can come in handy for this trail, thanks to the loose and steep terrain. When I say steep, I do mean steep – there are some portions up to 60 degrees.
And there’s Lake Waiau just a few miles shy of the actual summit which is a nice change of pace. You can catch the short spur trail to the lake just before you reach the final paved road portion of the hike. It’s on relatively flat ground, and it’ll add about a mile to your total hike distance. It’s worth it in my opinion – you can witness the highest alpine lake in Hawaii and the tallest lake in the Pacific Rim.
Trail and Road?
Trail and road? – yes, if you are hiking to the summit from the Visitor Center, you will hike mostly on trail, with the final portion being on the paved road to the summit (~ the last mile up).
Speaking of trail and road, it’s very common for hikers to ascend via the trail, and descend via the road. Descending on the paved road can be easier than descending the steep and loose terrain of the trail, which is why many hikers choose this option. There are very steep portions of the Mauna Kea Trail, including some grades up to 60 degrees! NOTE that if you do choose to walk down the paved road from the summit back to the Visitor Center parking lot, it will ADD 2 MILES to the roundtrip distance. This is important to note as many apps, such as AllTrails, show a roundtrip distance that only takes into account hiking up and back on the trail.
The Summit of Mauna Kea
The Actual Summit – Mauna Kea is considered sacred to the history of the Hawaiian islanders, and it’s your own personal call whether to stand on the actual summit or not. There are signs asking visitors to refrain from those final few steps.
Descending Mauna Kea
Hitchhiking – another aspect common to hiking Mauna Kea is hitchhiking down. That’s because the majority of people summiting are driving, so there’s some decent opportunities to catch a ride down instead of walking the paved road 8 miles back. Though if you do choose to do so, the views from the road are fantastic, and in some ways even superior to the views from the trail.
Or you can choose to hike back the way you came (it’ll be a little shorter – but steeper and harder to navigate the loose terrain).
Weather on Mauna Kea
Expect high altitude weather! Yes, it can and does snow on the top of Hawaii. There are even occasions where the rangers have to close the access road to the summit due to icy conditions. Even in mid-September when the beaches are 80 degrees and warm, it can be brutally cold, near freezing, with gale force winds at the summit. That’s me literally describing my time spent hiking Mauna Kea!
As a general rule of thumb, it’s common for temperatures to drop about 10 degrees for every thousand feet of elevation gain. So on Mauna Kea, you can expect about 40-50 degrees cooler at the summit than it is at sea level. On the particular day that I hiked in mid September, it was 73 degrees when I left my hotel, and a crisp 33 degrees at the summit (with what I would describe as near hurricane force winds).
You HAVE to have the right gear, especially for the potential weather. I would highly recommend layers and a waterproof and windproof shell. I personally utilized wool layers (base and midlayer), with an Outdoor Research Helium II weatherproof outer shell jacket. Plus insulation for my head, and gloves.
Before your hike, be sure to check mountain-forecast.com for summit specific weather. It’s how I was able to pick the right window and avoid the rainfall that was happening at the summit on certain days, when it was sunny and clear at sea level!
The other weather related consideration is the level of exposure. There is no shade on this trail, so choose your hiking window carefully. I opted to start near midnight and aim for a sunrise summit so that I could avoid full sun exposure. I hate sun exposure much more than I do freezing temperatures and darkness. Consider the type of conditions you are most comfortable and prepared to hike in for your own hike.
Estimated Time to Hike Mauna Kea
Estimated Time – either way you choose to hike Mauna Kea, you should be prepared for a 8-12 hour day. Some of that of course depends on how you plan to reach Mauna Kea, and whether you catch a ride back down or not. To be on the safe side, plan to start early (I’d recommend pre-dawn). I’d highly recommend bringing a headlamp for this hike.
Mauna Kea Observatory
What are the White Buildings at the Top? – there’s an observatory and telescopes located at the summit of Mauna Kea, and those white buildings are all part of the observatory.
Other Options for Exploring Mauna Kea
Other Options – if you don’t want (or can’t) drive to the summit, but you also aren’t prepared to hike the entire trail, there are a few other alternative options to still enjoy Mauna Kea, the highest point in Hawaii!
- #1: Park at the Visitor Center and hike the nearby “unofficial” trail to the top of the cinder cone across the street. When you park at the Visitor Center parking lot (on the left hand side of the road), simply cross the road, hop over the guardrail (it’s ok, the ranger actually told me directly that I could if I wanted so it’s not against the rules), and pick up the unmarked and unnamed dirt path that leads to the nearby cinder cone hill. It’s about a 10-15 minute hike, but the views are stunning, and it’s a suitable alternative to hiking the entire thing.
- #2: Book a Tour. There are stargazing/observatory/sunset tours that can be booked and those tours will safely take you up to the summit and back. Most of the tours I saw online were lengthy and not cheap, so just be prepared. Also, the ones I saw required guests to be at least 13 years old, which wouldn’t work for my toddler.
- #3: Do a “shortened” hike (if you have a 4WD vehicle). You can park at the trailhead for the Lake Waiau spur trail and hike from there, whether just to the lake or to the lake, then the summit, then back down.
More Fun Facts
If you are lucky enough to be on the big island when Kilauea is erupting, you can actually see the glowing plume from Mauna Kea. In fact, it’s a bit of a show stopper and might just steal the show. I was fortunate enough to catch episode 33 of Kilauea erupting on my Mauna Kea hike. Getting there pre-dawn paid off huge as the glow from the volcano lit up the entire sky even from an hour away!
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